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Snake Bit

Water shields carpet Snake Lake (9/25/20) Michael Beatley

California seems snake bit. With the state reeling from forest closures to accommodate wildfire management, sunsets in which red balls drop through haze toward shimmering horizons and Covid-19 pandemic restrictions, we’re exhausted, fed up and looking for escape.

Meadow Valley color spotter Michael Beatley returned to his Plumas County home, after a 5-day mandatory evacuation, to find the smoke had cleared, though a lingering haze remained. The northern Sierra’s Bear fire had been held just short of nearby Bucks Lake.

So, Michael did what many of us seek to do. He sought refuge in one of his favorite places, Snake Lake, six miles west of Quincy and just a short drive off Bucks Lake Rd from Meadow Valley.

There, he found the lake carpeted with lily pads called Water Shields.  They are a perennial herb, prized for salad greens by the Japanese.  These magical discs, the kind children’s fairtytale books depict as landing pads for enchanted frogs and fairies, will soon transform to beautiful shades of red, maroon, orange, yellow and green.   In springtime, more magic happens when they produce white flowers. Imagine drifting across this waterscape in a canoe.

Bigleaf maple, Snake Lake (9/25/20) Michael Beatley

Not far from the bigleaf maple, alder and dogwood lining the lake’s banks, beaver, white pelicans, great blue herons, sandhill crane, egrets and flocks of migratory birds flourish at Snake Lake.

This watery wonderland may have a biting name, but the picture Beatley portrays is one of seclusion that seems a natural balm for what is ailing us, right now.

  • Snake Lake, Plumas County (3,950′) – Patchy (10-50%)
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Lassen Volcanic’s Color Burst

Kings Creek Upper Meadow, Lassen Volcanic NP (9/28/20) Shanda Ochs

To Park Guide Shanda Och’s surprise, Lassen Volcanic National Park had erupted with fall color during recent days when she’d been working inside.

To her delight, she discovered that from Hat Creek Meadow to Kings Creek Meadow, the park landscape had become splashed with “vibrant gold, oranges and even red!,” she exclaimed. That was all happening between 6,500 and 7,500′ in elevation.

Quaking aspen in the park’s were a blend of full yellow and bright green. And, though dazzling, we rate it as Patchy, with more to come.

At Dersch Meadows, more red caught her eye. The rosy specimen seen above is Bog blueberry, Vaccinium uliginosum. In North Korea, its berries are used to flavor infused liquor.

A thousand feet higher at Kings Creek Upper Meadow, more of this red beauty competed with meadow grasses and willows for attention.

Lemmon’s Willow, Manzanita Lake, Lassen Volcanic NP (9/28/20) Shanda Ochs

While, at the national park’s northwest entrance, cottonwood and alder ringing Manzanita Lake (5,900′) are Just Starting; a few Lemmon’s willows are dressed in a leafy lace of green and gold, while most have decided to wear a disappointing brown. And, please don’t insist brown is the new orange. It isn’t.

  • Lassen Volcanic National Park (6,500 to 7,500′) – Patchy (10-50%)
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Inyo NF to Remain Closed

Inyo National Forest along with six other national forests, will remain closed through Oct. 8, the USDA Forest Service announced today.

The decision was “based on the continued hot and dry conditions that remain in the forecast for the upcoming week, continued active fires throughout the state and continued firefighting resource limitations.”

This means that fall color viewing is not permitted on federal lands and roads within the Inyo National Forest, from Conway Summit south to Kennedy Meadows. All Inyo NF lands, trails and roads are closed to the public.

The only locations that one can legally photograph or view fall color are: on private property, inside a vehicle on a state highway or county road or standing within the right of way of a state highway or county road within the national forest. However, that is not advised as wandering onto NF land could put you in jeopardy.

This means that until further notice, the following prime, Eastern Sierra, fall color viewing areas may not be visited, except when on private property, a state highway or county road or their right of way:

Mono County

  • Lundy Canyon
  • Lee Vining Canyon
  • June Lake Loop
  • Sagehen Summit
  • Mammoth Lakes Basin
  • Reds Meadow/Devil’s Postpile NM
  • Laurel Canyon
  • Convict Lake
  • McGee Creek
  • Rock Creek Canyon
  • All backcountry trails and lakes

Inyo County

  • Lower Rock Creek Rd.
  • Pine Creek Canyon
  • Bishop Creek Canyon
  • Onion Valley
  • Whitney Portal
  • All backcountry trails and lakes

The USDA Forest Service may cite anyone photographing or viewing fall color in one of these closed areas. Fines of up to $5,000 may apply.

Closed National Forests are in Southern California and the southern Sierra Nevada. They include:

  • Angeles NF
  • Cleveland NF
  • Los Padres NF
  • San Bernardino NF
  • Inyo NF
  • Sequoia NF
  • Sierra NF

Until this status changes, the California Fall Color Map will show only dark green “CLOSED” leaves for areas inside all closed national forests and parks.

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Robinson Creek

Robinson Creek Trail (9/25/20) Lance Pifer

With Inyo National Forest closed, new attention is being given to other Eastern Sierra forests and wilderness areas.

That allowed Lance Pifer to score a First Report for the Robinson Creek Trail in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest (northern Mono County), which he hiked this past weekend.

The Robinson Creek Trailhead starts at Arnett’s Mono Village at the terminus of Twin Lakes Rd near Bridgeport. It then gains 1,000 feet over its 7.8-mile, roundtrip length. National Geographic describes the trail as one of the most popular in the Bridgeport area, with beautiful subalpine views.

The USDA Forest Service notes that the Hoover Wilderness through which the trail passes, has “relatively little timber throughout much of its steep terrain that ranges from around 7,000 feet to more than 12,000 feet. Its few forested areas are composed of scattered groves of hemlock, pine, aspen, and cottonwood.” 

The paucity of timber did not deter Pifer from sending back photographs of a lovely trail through Patchy aspen and glimpses of gold along the Robinson Creek Trail. At Blue lake outlet, a lush grove of Just Starting quakers hinted at the beauty still to come, the kind now being seen at Virginia Creek where it is peaking.

  • Robinson Creek Trail (7,000′) – Patchy (10-50%)
  • Virginia Creek Trail (9,819′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!

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Look, Don’t Touch

Surveyor’s Meadow, S. Fork Rd., Bishop Creek Canyon (9/27//20) Bruce Wendler

The nearest we can figure about what’s open or closed in the Eastern Sierra is that the USDA Forest Service, despite its declarations, seems to have a “look, don’t touch” approach to visiting Inyo National Forest.

Today, we received numerous reports and photos from color spotters who drove through Bishop Creek Canyon and along the June Lake Loop to view Near Peak to Patchy fall color, this past weekend. They reported that campgrounds, trails and parking lots are closed, with several barricaded. At least one spotter spoke to a USDA FS ranger who said the maximum fine for entering a closed area is $5,000.

The problem arises in that CA-168 and CA-158, as state highways, remain open to vehicular traffic even though signs on US 395 warn that Inyo National Forest is closed. The contradiction gives the impression that it’s OK to stop to see fall color along these highways, when it is not.

For example, the photo of Surveyor’s Meadow (above) was taken beside S. Lake Road where – according to the photographer – no restrictions were noticed, enforced or evident. Yet, the photographer took the photo inside Inyo NF and therefore could have been fined, even though he thought he was doing the correct thing by not entering one of the closed areas. He believed that only the barricaded areas were closed and that the highway was not part of the forest.

If the USDA FS is sincere about closing Inyo NF to hiking, camping, driving and fishing, as stated by them, then roads leading to prime fall color viewing areas should be clearly signed, informing motorists that stopping to look at fall color is not permitted.

  • Surveyor’s Meadow, S. Fork, Bishop Creek Canyon (8,975′) – INYO NF CLOSED
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88 is Nearing 50

Quaking Aspen, Wylder Hope Valley Resort (9/26/20) Philip Reedy

Highway 88 is still Patchy but approaching 50% of peak color, as seen in Philip Reedy’s photos of color along the Carson Pass.

The route was busy with traffic this weekend because US 50 (a few miles north) was closed due to road construction. So, 88 was the only semi-direct route to South Lake Tahoe.

Reedy noted very few “leaf peepers” among those travelers and that little fall color has yet developed from Silver Lake to Carson Pass. He reported, “the stretch from Red Lake down to the iconic cabin is starting to show some color, but is still just beginning.  Those who love to photograph the cabin in all of its autumn glory, should probably wait a week.”

We are more conservative. From Reedy’s photo of the cabin, we estimate it will take 1.5 to two weeks to reach peak, there. As, from the pictures of the cabin he took, there is very little color yet beginning to appear; it’s still in the 0 – 10% range. 

Across the road there is still no color along Red Lake Creek, but the trees are still beautiful, and in a week or two will be glorious,” Reedy estimates. These trees usually produce a variety of colors, from yellow to orange to crimson which can be impressive at peak.

“From Blue Lakes Road, east on 88, there is a decent amount of color for the first mile or so, probably in the 10-50% range. The pasture north of the junction of Blue Lakes Rd and CA-88 continues to increase in intensity, but it’s a scattered show with trees losing leaves, to bright yellow, to green.  All the color is in the trees near the pasture, while the groves up the mountainside are still completely green.” Reedy reports.

The best displays of fall color in the Hope Valley are seen from the intersection of state highways 88 and 89 east to the Wylder Hope Valley Resort, especially on the south side of the highway.  Reedy said the resort itself is still mainly green. Beyond that, there’s little color to be seen all the way to Markleeville.

Phil Reedy was recently honored by the Outdoor Writers Association of California for contributing photography to the award-winning article, Siskiyou Sonata, published on this site, last year.

  • Carson Pass, CA-88E (8,652′) – Patchy (10-50%)
  • CA-88E (7,800′) – Patchy (10-50%)
  • CA-88E (7,550′ – 7,000′) – Patchy to Near Peak (10 – 75%) Go Now!
  • CA-88E (Below 7,000′) – Patchy (10-50%)
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Mano á Mono

Dunderberg Meadow Rd (9/26/20) Bruce Wendler

With Inyo National Forest closed (at least until Oct. 1), the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest in northern Mono County is the place to see peak fall color now through this coming week.

One of our color spotters, Bruce Wendler, visited the Virginia Lakes, but found the trees ringing Little Virginia Lake to be blown out.

Upper Summers Meadow Rd. (9/26/20) Bruce Wendler

However, when he continued along California Fall Color’s recommended Driving Tour of the Week, the color along Dunderberg Meadow Rd. was as predicted, with “nice redheads and yellows.”

At the upper terminus of Upper Summers Meadow Rd, color is at peak, though lower down, Wendler noted drought-stressed trees that need a week or two before they get there. Right now, they’re Patchy (10-50%).

Lobdell Lake Rd. (9/26/20) Bruce Wendler

There are several great boulevards in the Eastern Sierra. Among our favorites are North Lake Rd in Bishop Creek Canyon, the June Lake Loop and Lobdell Lake Rd.

Bruce writes that what sets Lobdell apart from the others is that it has big views once you climb out of the valleys. The road (seen above) takes an hour from Bridgeport with peak at the bottom, leading up to trees that are turned and backlight well. It’s a good, unpaved road that is two-wheel drivable. In some places, you can get into the trees.

Driving south of Conway Summit, Bruce passed areas of the Inyo National Forest that are closed to visitation. Bruce was able, however, to take pictures from afar.

Approaching Lundy Canyon, Bruce saw color that was just barely Patchy. That means Lundy Canyon still has a week to two to go. Hopefully, the forest will reopen this week as the Lundy Canyon Trail is one of the finest fall color hikes in California. We estimate it to be at peak in 1.5 to two weeks.

Sagehen (9/26/20) Bruce Wendler

Sagehen looks promising, as seen from a distance (the area remains closed). It appears to be at the lower end of Near Peak conditions. So, plan to head there as soon as the closure is lifted, but not before!

Wendler’s photos show clear skies, but at June Lakes, the area was being smothered by smoke from the Creek Fire (west of June Lakes and Mammoth Lakes). A check this morning has the air quality as good, and it’s even clearer in Mammoth Lakes, though it varies from unhealthy to good. Reports from Inyo County indicate the air quality in Bishop Creek Canyon was good today, though access to Lake Sabrina and North Lake remained closed.

Unhealthy air quality was most likely a contributing reason why Inyo National Forest was closed. As soon as the Creek Fire is doused (now 39% contained), it’s hopeful that restrictions will be lifted, barring another fire.

Please, stay out of closed areas until the closures are lifted. No public access for hiking, biking, camping, fishing and fall color viewing is permitted during Inyo NF’s closure.

  • Virginia Lakes (9,819′) – Peak (75-100%), GO NOW!
  • Dunderberg Meadows Rd (8,845′) – Near Peak (50-75%), Go Now!
  • Summers Meadow (7,200′) – Patchy (10-50%)
  • Upper Summers Meadow Rd. (8,500′) – Near Peak (50-75%) Go Now!
  • Upper Summers Meadow Rd. (10,065′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Lundy Lake (7,858′) – INYO NF CLOSED
  • Sagehen Summit (8,139′) – INYO NF CLOSED
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California Poplar

Black cottonwood, Jenkinson Lake (9/25/20) John Poimiroo

California poplar, better-known as black cottonwood (Populus balsamifera spp. trichocarpa), are often confused with Frémont cottonwood (Populus fremontii spp. fremontii).

It’s easy to mistake these siblings from a distance, as their size, bark, shape and colorations are similar, but look closely at their leaves and the difference is evident.

Black cottonwood have a darker, spear-pointed leaf, while Frémont cottonwood have a lighter-green, heart-shaped leaf, similar to aspen but with a toothy edge. Black cottonwood are the only poplar with willow-like leaves, though unlike willow, which are not aromatic, California poplar emit a strong odor from their buds in springtime.

The young specimen (pictured above) stands in a parking lot near Jenkinson Lake in Sly Park (Sierra Nevada, El Dorado County – US 50). It was planted there, though black cottonwood grow naturally near water. They thrive beside rushing streams “where water, rich in oxygen,” Jim Paruk writes in Sierra Nevada Tree Identifier, “speeds their growth.”

Native to both the east and west slope of the Sierra Nevada, black cottonwood are more often found on the west slope, growing up to 6,000 feet. However, the finest example of California poplar is found along Pine Creek, north of Bishop (Inyo County), where dense groves line the creek, as they have for millennia.

Cottonwood will peak after aspen do, because California poplar grow – on average – well below the 10,000′ upper limit for aspen. Cottonwood also lack the varied red, pink, orange, yellow and lime that appear in peaking aspen. They are uniformly gold at peak and thus aren’t photographed as often, though they have poignant sculptural beauty and are more widely dispersed.

Unlike aspen (which are limited to the Eastern Sierra, San Bernardino mountains and Cascades at elevations from 6,000′ to tree line), cottonwood are found throughout California, typically below 7,000′.

Within the two varieties, black cottonwood grow to the highest elevations (some as high as 9,000′), while Frémont cottonwood aren’t usually seen above 5,000′. Elevation is a good way to tell if the cottonwood is black or Frémont, at least until you can get close enough to see its leaf.

Presently, both California poplar and Frémont cottonwood are Just Starting (0-10%), but look for them to peak beginning in two weeks and continuing into December in Southern California drainages (i.e., Big Tujunga Canyon).

  • Jenkinson Lake (3,400′) – Just Starting (0-10%)
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Aftermath

A bouquet of rabbitbrush near peaking aspen (9/25/20) Gabriel Leete

In the aftermath of the Hog Fire, which straddled State Route 44 northeast of Lassen Volcanic National Park, there is both life and death.

Shasta Cascade color spotter Gabriel Leete traveled the route on his way to a baby shower for his daughter and noted that though the smoke was nearly absent in the morning, the fire smell was still strong and areas appeared to be smoldering.

Leete noted the contrast of an ashen forest not far from groves of brightly colored, peaking aspen.

  • Lassen National Forest – Patchy (10-50%)
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Lovely Lobdell

Lobdell Lakes Rd., Mono County (9/25/20) Clayton Peoples

Though he’d had his heart set on visiting Bishop Creek Canyon, with Inyo National Forest closed, Reno color spotter Clayton Peoples took our advice instead and drove south on US 395 to Lobdell Lakes in northern Mono County. He was not disappointed.

We have learned that some of the most spectacular fall color is seen when the forest isn’t fully at peak but when it is dressed in layers of color. Presently, Lobdell Lakes Road is lined with beautiful green, lime-green, yellow, orange and red quaking aspen.

Clayton wrote that while the groves are Patchy (10-50%) overall, many along the road are Near Peak (50-75%). He described the route as “lovely” with “great stands of aspen on both sides of the road, and the colors range from green to yellow to orange and red (although green and yellow dominate right now).”

The best photography develops for those who wait. Peoples said the best of his photos (seen at top), “benefited from dust being kicked up from a passing car, causing sunbeams to be visible through the aspen, via the dust.” 

  • Lobell Lake Rd. (8,600′) – Patchy (10-50%) – Areas of the road are Near Peak – GO NOW!