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Shufflin Through The Leaves

Leaf blowers are so powerful and efficient that leaves don’t stay piled up for long. Before there’s time to dive into a pile, they’ve been collected. So, when you happen upon a walkway strewn with dry leaves, as Ron and Michelle Pontoni did this week in Arcarta, have fun shufflin’ through them.

As for the color, though Arcata was declared past peak some time ago, Michelle’s photos show exotic Japanese maple and Gingko biloba hanging on at Humboldt State University (campus gates are closed due to the virus) and cedar waxwings and robins feasting on bunches of holly berries.

  • Arcata (23′) – Peak to Past Peak – GO NOW, You almost missed it.
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48 Hours

Historic barn, Westside Rd., Dry Creek Valley (11/15/20) David Laurence Sharp

In the span of 48 hours, “rain and wind on Friday took its toll on the vineyards of west Sonoma County,” reports wine country photographer David Laurence Sharp, “By Sunday, the vines had pretty much gone past peak,” there.

So, David drove to north Sonoma County where fall color was a “mixed bag” peaking in some vineyards and Near Peak in others.

His advice? Get to Sonoma or Napa as soon as you can.

Because of the ongoing storm, we recommend visiting between Thursday and Saturday. Thereafter, there may not be much vineyard color left.

Vineyard, Pastori Winery, Geyserville (11/15/20) David Laurence Sharp
  • South Sonoma County Vineyards – Peak to Past Peak, GO NOW, You almost missed it.
  • North Sonoma County Vinyeards – Near Peak to Peak (50-100%) GO NOW!
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Dew Drop Inn

Rain drops, Autumn grasses, Ukiah (11/14/20) Walt Gabler

Walt Gabler traveled back from his backwoods Humboldt County cabin, passing by the Benbow Inn on US 101, capturing multi-colored leaves carpeting the landscape, as autumn color was bowing out.

By the time he got back to Ukiah, rain had arrived, the vines had turned from green to brown and dew had weighed down fall grasses.

  • Benbow Inn, Eel River (440′) – Peak to Past Peak, GO NOW You Almost Missed It.
  • Ukiah (663′) – Peak to Past Peak, GO NOW You Almost Missed It.
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Why Vines Turn Color

Hallberg Vineyards, Graton, Sonoma County (11/13/20) David Laurence Sharp

Rain is diluting the color seen in California’s vineyards, but only momentarily.

We’ve found that unless the leaves are blown off, they usually retain their color following storms. And, the current storm, though it will last, off and on, for a week, it appears to be light, so far.

Doug Stanton of Stanton Vineyards in St. Helena says a greater danger to the leaves is frost. Freezing temperatures will quickly turn leaves brown that will drop to the vineyard floor. He urges going now to see the vines at peak, as with the rain and possible frost, the show could be gone by the end of the month.

The Stanton family has been growing vines in the Napa Valley for 73 years (Doug for 30); they also produce 500 to 800 cases of wine each year.

Bright reds and oranges are not something that’s a good thing. The colors indicate the vines are diseased, which delays ripening. Stanton explains, “Really colorful vineyards didn’t start with clean material.” This occurred because, historically, vineyards were planted from cuttings taken from other blocks which spread disease. Today, vines come from nurseries that certify their stock as disease free.

Disease doesn’t necessarily affect the quality of a wine, but it does reduce the productivity of the vineyard. Stanton explains, “Years ago, wine makers would say, ‘we don’t mind a little disease. It adds character.’ Though, as a grower, I want them disease free, so that they’ll ripen as quickly as possible, before it rains.”

Planting a vineyard is a big investment. Stanton says, “certifying you’re using clean material is the most important decision a grower makes. We want a block to be producing 20 to 30 years or more.”

As such, scenes of brightly colored grape leaves, such as that above – taken in Calistoga a dozen years ago – may soon disappear. The removal of unproductive vineyards is occurring throughout the Napa Valley. Stanton says, “They’re culling the vineyards, right now. You’ll see lots of empty fields with vines, that were no longer producing, heaped up.”

As diseased vines are removed, healthy ones which display bright, yellow and lime-colored leaves are replacing them. That does not mean shots like that above won’t be found. Diseases will always infect vineyards, but more vineyards will be uniformly yellow and green.

A lot of media attention was given to the effect of recent wildfires on wine production. About 30% of the harvest was lost due to buyers assessing the grapes as being “smoke tainted.” Other than the loss of a sizeable part of this year’s harvest, Stanton explains that the smoke did little long-term damage that won’t be blown, washed and pruned away during winter.

As to when grape varieties show fall color, Stanton agrees with wine country photographer David Laurence Sharp who observes that early ripening vines, such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, tend to show peak fall color earlier than late ripening varieties.

Sharp says the Alexander and Dry Creek valleys in northern Sonoma County are planted with later ripening varieties, whose leaves, he estimates, will turn later this month.

Stanton’s favorite places to see fall color in the Napa Valley have been the Oakville grade, Far Niente (whose grounds are beautifully landscaped), White Sulphur Springs (though areas were burned in recent fires) and west of St. Helena.

My favorite? Well, since I’m not a grower, any diseased vineyard.

  • Vineyards, Sonoma County (108′) – Near Peak (50-100%) Go Now.
  • Vineyards, Napa Valley (253′) – Near Peak (50-100%) Go Now.
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Hidden Life in a Rain Forest

Fly agaric, Amanita muscaria, Tolowa Dunes SP, Crescent City (11/11/20) Max Forster

Towering redwood trees are so awe inspiring that most visitors to the North Coast look up so much, they miss the hidden life in a rain forest.

Humboldt County color spotter Max Forster explored Redwood National and State Parks (Jedediah Smith Redwoods, Prairie Creek and Redwood National Park) and shares this report:

“Bigleaf maple are well past peak, but you can still find individual trees, usually those that are more shaded by redwoods, displaying peak fall foliage.

“Vine leaf maple are peaking now, along with smaller understory hardwood trees and shrubs of the forest. Very young alder trees seem particularly showy to me this year.

“While the bay laurel trees aren’t showing fall foliage, recent rains have turned up their fragrance to 100. Their smell is as incredible as I can remember, absolutely luxuriant.

“Vine maple in the redwood parks generally turn similar golden hues as the bigleaf, but you can find reds at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park.

“Roosevelt elk bulls have collected their harems and can generally be found around Humboldt Lagoons State Park (Dry Lagoon/Little Red Schoolhouse area), Elk Prairie at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and the prairies of Del Norte County near Crescent Beach.

“Mushrooms are currently out in abundance and their displays are giving the fall foliage some competition for what should demand one’s attention.

Bigleaf maple, Redwoods National & State Parks (11/11/20) Max Forster

“It’s about to rain in redwood country for a week straight and conditions will be changing rapidly in the coming days, so a visit for fall foliage should be done as soon as possible.

“Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt Redwoods State Park is at peak and well worth the drive. One can also find great displays of color from old growth poison oak vines that have climbed the redwood trunks for decades. Some of the best spots for poison oak will be along northern sections of the Avenue of the Giants and along Mattole Road between Highway 101 and the Rockefeller Forest parking lot.”

Maple, Laurel, Redwood National & State Parks (11/11/20) Max Forster

In an email conversation with Max today, he mentioned how the Covid-19 pandemic drove crowds to lightly populated Humboldt County. His comments were similar to what I’ve heard from local contacts in the Eastern Sierra, Northern Sierra, South Lake Tahoe and elsewhere where inexperienced outdoor travelers overwhelmed small rural communities and acted unthinkingly, treating fragile places roughly, leaving behind trash and acting as if they didn’t need to act prudently just because they were in the outdoors.

It was terrifying, upsetting and overwhelming to small communities where medical facilities were limited, food services and visitor support were stretched thin and locals were at risk from contact with others from outside their area.

I truly believe that fall color spotters are more sensitive and caring than those described, and we can help by traveling lightly and being mindful of what the Eastern Sierra calls using “mountain manners.”

Always leave a place cleaner than you found it by carrying disposable gloves and a trash bag to pick up trash (even if it’s not yours) and deposit them in the nearest receptacle. Please be respectful of local communities and cultures; this applies not just when you travel abroad, but works anywhere. Finally, support rural economies. Let’s make sure the courtesies they provide to visitors are more than given back.

  • Redwood National and State Parks, Humboldt County (1,000′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
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Going Gigantic

Avenue of the Giants, Humboldt County (11/8/20) Rene Yampolsky

Humboldt County, home of the Avenue of the Giants, is living up to its reputation for going big, by going gigantic along the Redwood Highway, the Van Duzen River and at Willow Creek in Six Rivers National Forest.

Walt Gabler reported from the Van Duzen that, “it’s really popping along Hwy 36 between Carlotta and Bridgeville.” He credits a sudden drop in temperature to as low as the high 20s for intensifying the vibrance of the color, though he cautions that leaves are dropping. So, GO NOW!

Richard Stenger related that the Avenue of the Giants is hot with peak color, as is Willow Creek in Humboldt/Six Rivers National Forest. Hillsides are veritable painter’s palettes splashed with bright vermillion, orange, yellow and lime.

Bluff Creek, Six Rivers NF, Humboldt County (11/7/20) Zack Stanton
Kalamath River, Six Rivers NF, Humboldt County (11/8/20) Erika Guerra
  • Six Rivers National Forest, Humboldt County (610′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Avenue of the Giants, Humboldt County (300′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Van Duzen River, Humboldt County (131′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
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Back Woods

US 101 and CA 36 travel through the back woods of the North Coast. They pass through places where you see more Dickies than Bonobos, more Duluth Trading than Stitch Fix, more lunch pails than bistros.

Back woods towns are called Laytonville and Scotia. Back woods rivers are the Van Duzen and Eel. Everything about them is hard working.

So, when Walt Gabler said he’d be driving north on 101 and then on 36 to repair the wood-burning stove at his back woods cabin, I suggested he snap the color. “No one’s reported from there, yet,” I explained.

Now, I see why.

It’s Near Peak along 101 and 36 with bigleaf maple all yellow and lime, but the back woods folk have likely been too busy walking fence lines and splitting fire wood to report it. The black oak are characteristically dark orange, though a tint of haze from recent wildfires has dampened their luster. No doubt that haze has kept people busy with other things, back woods things.

  • Redwood Highway, US 101 (243′) – Near Peak (50-75%) Go Now.
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Pear Perfect in Healdsburg

Flowering pear, Healdsburg (12/7/19) Anson Davalos

Soon after non-Indians settled the Healdsburg area in the late 1850s, they found that anything grows in Sonoma County’s fertile soil.

Grapes, lumber and hops were Healdsburg’s biggest cash crops until The Volstead Act (Prohibition) eliminated commercial wine and beer making in 1919. Vineyards were then uprooted and replaced with orchards.

To replace the grapes and hops, French plums were planted in such abundance surrounding Healdsburg that the town became known as “the buckle of the prune belt.”

Plums became a huge profit crop, as prunes (dried plums) were a fruit that could be transported and had shelf life in an age when refrigeration wasn’t common.

Kelseyville, in neighboring Lake County, had a similar history, though its vineyards were replaced with pear orchards whose fruit was canned and also exported, earning Kelseyville the sobriquet, “pear capital of the world.”

Both towns began replacing orchards with vineyards, starting in the 1980s, as wine consumption increased and consumption of dried and canned fruit declined.

Colorful remnants of the region’s orchard days remain in downtown Healdsburg where pear trees (the flowering variety) line its streets. Color spotter Anson Davalos found them at peak this past weekend.

We know of no plums growing in Kelseyville, though pears remain an important product, especially when combined with wine, as noted in this Sunset magazine article.

  • Healdsburg, Sonoma County (105′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW! – Pears
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Napa: Another Week of Peak

Napa Valley (11/9/19) Mike Caffey

This is probably the last week of peak fall color in the Napa Valley.

Mike Caffey was there on Saturday (Nov. 9) and captured vineyards carrying beautiful loads of orange, red and yellow leaves, as well as many others that were past peak.

Of course, vineyards turn by grape variety. My visits to Sierra Foothill vineyards this past weekend found vines similar to what Caffey discovered. Some were totally dry with russet-colored leaves, while nearby others were gloriously painted in burgundy, auburn, vermillion, gold and green.

Mike traveled the Silverado Trail and CA-29 through Napa Valley, commenting that there’s “about one more week of good color left then it will all be spent.” You can just see that in the above photograph. The valley floor is washed with deep orange, vermillion, iridescent yellow and a mix of lime and gold.

Caffey added what’s been reported so many times before this autumn, that “Everything seems delayed a bit this year compared to past years.  There are some vineyards that are nearly bare and others that are still mostly green.  So I think people can find something good up there for another week.”

Napa Valley (11/9/19) Mike Caffey

Up in the gorgeous Russian River wine country, the vineyards are now mostly bare, though those along US 101 “were still looking pretty good.” However, as soon as “you drove up into the mountain areas west of 101 all of the vines were brown,” Caffey reported.

This is it. Wherever you live, get to your local wine country this week, as it’s the last for peak. And, should you miss the show, then sit back and relax as you enjoy a glass of the product of those past peak vines.

  • Anderson Valley (269′) – Past Peak, YOU MISSED IT.
  • Ukiah (633′) – Past Peak, YOU MISSED IT.
  • Russian River (59′) – Past Peak, YOU MISSED IT.
  • Alexander Valley (105′) – Peak to Past Peak, YOU ALMOST MISSED IT.
  • Windsor (118′) – Peak to Past Peak, YOU ALMOST MISSED IT.
  • Santa Rosa (164′) – Peak to Past Peak, YOU ALMOST MISSED IT.
  • Valley of the Moon (253′) – Peak to Past Peak, YOU ALMOST MISSED IT.
  • Sonoma (85′) – Peak to Past Peak, YOU ALMOST MISSED IT.
  • Napa Valley (253′) – Peak to Past Peak, YOU ALMOST MISSED IT.
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Napa’s Vintage

Clear blue skies and vintage autumn color are being seen throughout the Napa Valley, making it Peak of the Week.

Gone are the hazy days delivered by October’s Kincade Fire, as wine country has been transformed back into a beautiful drive, bike ride or stroll.

Charles Hooker of Napa was out for a bike ride today and passed by the boulevard of Gingko trees leading to the Far Niente Winery in Oakville, sending back these camera phone snaps of that gorgeous road.

Thanks for sharing, Charles, it gives me one more reason to go wine tasting and return to the beauty of the Napa Valley.

  • Napa Valley (20′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!